Burgenland, Austria. Evocations somewhere between serious cru Beaujolais and northern Rhône on the nose. Violets, firm red cherry, maraschino and earth. On the palate there’s fresh, firm-fleshed but not particularly sweet fruit. It’s medium-bodied and juicy at its heart, with definite tannin presence and bright acids giving shape and drive. Again, there’s firm cherry and plum, with white and black pepper notes plus cinnamon. It lingers really nicely with a real sense of cohesion between fruit, acidity and fine, dusty tannin. Taut and fine-tuned, this spreads long across the palate and feels like it will open beautifully in the glass...