McLaren Vale, South Australia. If you wanted to show an overseas visitor an example of a ‘classic’ South Australian wine, then this would be a fine place to start. It’s medium to full bodied, almost svelte, with succulent but intense ripe tannin, truffle and grilled meat, blackcurrant and boysenberry, a little toast and smokiness, pitch-perfect acidity, and a finish of impeccable length and composition. Great wine. Dead set classic...